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June 12, 2009


Ken K.

This is just a stab in the dark and maybe you've tried it already, but try flipping the various switches up and down a few times each.

I find that this needs to be done once in a while, especially if I haven't used the radio in a while.


I had an old Grundig AM-FM-SW with the same issue. One time, I was listening to FM. I switched to low AM and pushed the antenna back into the radio. When the antenna slapped down into the radio, suddenly AM got very loud and very clear. I "fixed" something just by knocking the antenna back into the set. But as suddenly as the problem was solved, it came back. Something loose might have made contact again for a brief time???

Mike W

Thanks, Ken, I just tried that and the NYC-based MW station I use as a benchmark is coming in pretty well now, but I suspect that's mostly just propagation conditions being good at the moment. I'll have to check SW after sunset.


It could be the wire(s) to the gyro AM antenna is loose.

Mike W

I wouldn't rule that out, Ed, but it still leaves me wondering about the loss of sensitivity on SW.


Good point, Mike. Then I'm wondering if the AM front-end got "zapped" by a static discharge... have you connected it to an external antenna recently? Or touched the whip on a dry day? This was a problem with the Sony 2010, a radio of similar vintage to the 2200.

Mike W

I cannot recall any single instance, Ed, and "no" regarding the external antenna question, but that's exactly the kind of electronic damage I fear may have happened.

A lot of the digital sets had easily damaged front-ends. I had a Satellit 700 that got a little deaf as time went by, although I don't think that model was as touchy as the 2010 was.

I thought these older discrete-component sets were a little more robust than the 90's digital models, and am wondering if the capacitors simply give out with time.


Yes, caps do give out, but the FM audio would also be affected, if we're talking about the cap in the audio amplification circuit. Anyway, if you can get inside and access it, you can try putting a 10-100uF bypass cap across the existing one and see if the audio comes back. Can't hurt to try.

Mike W

I didn't think I'd open it tonight but couldn't resist. Just 6 Philips head screws takes the back off, and the connectors for the two leads that hang off the back (for the AC cord and the whip antenna) slide off easily instead of being soldered, as they probably would be now. This radio was built to be serviced.

Trouble is I see so many capacitors - can types, film types, etc. - that I wouldn't know which to bypass.

Well, it's late, I'll look into it again tomorrow, thanks for the tips.


Mike: The electrolytic type of capacitor is the one that often dries up over the years. These are the larger cylindrical or can types, large in value (ie, 1 to 100microFarads) capacitors. Disc ceramics, film and other types rarely fail. It would be best if you had a schematic for the 2200, but look near the volume control or near the speaker connections. That's where the audio electrolytic capacitors that can cause problems are usually located. Try bypassing them with a known-good cap of similar or larger value. Good luck.

Mike W

I now have PDF copies of the owner's and service manuals for the RF-2200, because this fellow named Brian was thoughtful enough to provide online access to them :


Well, I replaced the back cover on my 2200 for now, but may return to it in the near future, especially since the larger can type capacitors look much easier to replace.

Radiointel also has this excellent article about restoring the RF-2200 :


In it, Jay Allen mentions the complex 40-odd-point alignment process. Someone with more equipment and skill than I possess could use the link to the service manual above to align their 2200, but it is not for the timid.

Ed, I suspect you've got a digital multimeter, just a hunch.


With the symptoms as described, my bets would be on the AM IF bandwidth switch. Best clean all of them while you're at it.

This might also be a good opportunity to treat a scratchy tuning cap in case that's a problem; it's those ground connection wipers that want to be cleaned. Best use some dedicated tuner cleaner that does not mess up the tuning.

Realignment in particular should only be carried out once all the contacts are working reliably. (Bandswitches and stuff in the IF path are the most critical here.) Same usually goes for recapping unless there are some strong hints (e.g. audible hum in the audio during mains operation or underpowered output).

Mike W

All good points, Stephan.

I toggled the AM bandwidth switch a few times this morning and liked the radio sounded afterwards, but that may have been propagation conditions.

While I had the case opened I did give the air variable capacitor a shot of deoxit.

Realignment is a bit over my head, but I will give the switches more cleaner.

António Tavares

How is the world...so small it is.
I got tyhe samew complain on my radio completly equal...since long time my head is in permanent circuit about Radio Panasonic RF 2200/BS....crazy i stood some time.
Yesterday i decid to " sail" on the net as good sailor i am..and i found a good circle of splendid esthusiasts of classic radio or short waves radios?

Now after printing this so " usefull manual i could to follow the structure of set and maybe...i could find the reson so lower sounds on SW, some time NO..SIGNAL~Compliments for all-from
PORTUGAL OPORTO i am A Tavares( sailorboat@sapo.pt)
I ne3ed this radio when sleepn on sail along lenght of deck of ship, receiving the ouring breeze of my splendid weather...and taking a PORT on my side..some time a VINTAGE 3o years old bottled.
cheers Dear Burys


Antonio, listening to a great radio while fresh breezes waft in your direction on a boat. That's the good life and you capture my love of good radios completely. Bests.

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