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July 14, 2013


Bob Balser

Bad contacts,dead battery?


Thank you very much Richard, I have a friend who specializes in these types of radios, I ask for your help, I visited your website many happy is an exciting prospect, I'm in Mexico, Greetings

Alejandro Saldivar.


nice radio, i found one that it was just about to be in the trash. got the same am vfo sticky problems will try the deoxit.

Chris Coakes

It would seem that Gregory may have purchased a bargain, in good condition.
Hopefully he was able ascertain the cost of the radio when it was new.

I was in Bermuda during the 1960's and purchased the original Globetrotter,
model that was imported into the island, directly from Germany. The cost
plus A.C. power pak, came in at a little less than what was being charged in
New York. The radio came with me when I moved to the U.K. in 1981and was used
constantly there. Gradually it deteriorated until I finally sent it back to Normende in Germany, in 1993. I received a curt report back, advising that the radio was virtually destroyed, and there were no spares available period. To prevent Normende
having to pay German import duty, I agreed it should be broken up, with customs
in attendance. I was lucky to get 29 years service, but 18 years of Bermuda's
heat. salt air, and humidity certainly took it's toll


Twenty-nine years of good radio listening from one radio in the tropics is what I call excellent performance and money well spent.

Tikky Koot


I have the Nordmende Globetrotter Amateur. Please tell about the external 7.5 Volt power jack, is the body - or +, of is the inner conector + or - volt??


Larry Thompson

I purchased one of these in college, 1965, and had it all through grad school and living in France and 3 years of volunteer teaching in the DRC Congo. Some incredible DX with that receiver, as well as awesome sound quality on FM and SW. Mine had a teak case, so was an attractive living room piece or great looking on my desk. Gave it to my Congolese principal, as getting good short wave receivers there was virtually impossible. My best DX was getting WQXR classical AM in NYC one winter morning. Engineer on the QSL said it was the furthest they had ever had a reception report. I lusted after a Braun T1000CD but could only afford the NordeMende.It was a great choice and gave me hours of listening pleasure!

Larry Butler W4CSC

Just found this website for my fav portable radio I bought, new, in Chicago in the 1960s and carried all through the Navy. Your cleaning with DeOxit will work for many years, though you'll save $$ just using WD-40, which works even better. My FM died because its local oscillator transistor died about 30 years out of warrantee. Replacing any FM components in that metal shield box is "very interesting". I even found an original transistor in new condition to replace the dead one with so I had not tracking oscillator problems. Dial calibration on all bands after all these years is amazing.

I'm writing, late, because noone else mentioned the mobile mounting bracket, the reason the handle is made of metal. This bracket mounts under your dash, and makes with those connectors on the bottom of the radio. There's a multipin connector that connects power from the mounting bracket's power supply that drops 12V to 7.5V for most of the electronics, except the big power transistor that gets the full, but filtered nicely, 14V for more AUDIO POWER! You'll find a hole a pin pushes into from the mobile bracket to push a big switch inside the radio. This makes antenna, power, disconnects batteries, and nearly triples the audio power output, which, when mounted, comes out the car's big speaker, not the internal which would be pointed to the floor of the car. All this happens when you pull the handle up straight and slide the radio into its tray. The handle is then pushed down under the internal speaker which locks the radio into its steel mounting bracket very solidly. Car antenna works for all bands, monophonic car speaker now will blow your ears at full volume when that pin pushes the switch and changes the audio output to high power, which would kill the D cells fast played loudly. You'll also find a 110VAC/220VAC coinslot switch on the bottom that easily switches AC line voltage for various countries (50-60 Hz AC ONLY!) A line fuse inside the radio blows if you forget to switch to 220VAC or plug it into DC. A Norelco shaver rubber plug from an AC only shaver makes a perfect replacement for a missing power cord. Plugging in the AC cord also hits a switch in the 2-pin hole and disconnects the batteries for continuous AC operation. DIN connector audio in and out. I used to use the radio for a DIN amplifier for a Philips portable reel-to-reel tape deck. That would also allow me to tape rare shortwave stations. I'll think of more you missed as soon as I send this. Mine sits on my nightstand and plays all night for the last 30-35 years. Germans made the best radios.


Any clues on opening the battery compartment?

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