My trusty hipster guide Zevon made me home-made falafels
slathered with babaganoush and Umeboshi paste, and presented me with his
artisan cheese platter featuring Zamorano,
Epoisse, Fontina val d’Aosta, Adriatic figs, and guava chutney while explaining that
while he appreciated my desire to lose weight I would have to do so by adhering
to the Hipster Eating Code of which there are twelve principles.
Principle
#1: Hipsters Don’t Go on Diets. Zevon made
it clear that I could not under any circumstances go on a diet, for dieting is
anti-hipster and, owing to the Herd who take marching orders from Low-Carb
Fascist Dr. Atkins, Beverly Hills Diet maven Judy Mazel and other dietary
charlatans, going on a diet is
downright gauche.
There is another important reason hipsters do not go on
diets and that is that diets promote self-denial and going on a self-punishing
diet is a sign of capitulating to the media’s tyrannical notions of what
constitutes a pleasing body image. Zevon made it clear that dieting is
anti-hipster because hipsters are what Zevon calls “educated hedonists,”
meaning they indulge their voluptuary and sensualist appetites with temperance.
A hedonist eats expensive high-grade dark chocolate, for example, but savors it
meticulously, caressing each subtle flavor more like a professional food critic
than someone in desperate need of a chocolate fix. In other words, eating rich,
indulgent foods is a hipster imperative, but equally important is the attitude
the hipster adopts while eating. “Eating,” according to Zevon, “is an exotic
adventure. It is never the base act of feeding at the trough like an animal.” I
then explained that eating like an animal, hoarding food, and being driven by a
voracious, unforgiving appetite pretty much defined my entire existence upon
which Zevon shook his head and said I had much to learn.
Principle
#2: Hipsters Don’t Get Bloated. The trick
to being a hipster is to be slender and to eat lavishly but in small
quantities. This principle is both embraced by the French and the Japanese who
wisely adhere to the saying, “Hara hachi bu,” which means eat until you’re 80% full. The Anti-Bloat Principle, not
surprisingly, prohibits a hipster from eating at all-you-can buffets or any
eatery where large portions are emphasized over quality.
Principle
#3: Thanksgiving Must Be Anti-Bloat and Anti-Traditional. For hipsters, Thanksgiving is a necessary evil—an obsolete
tradition rooted in revisionist history and one that asks us to indulge in
backward eating habits. Piling an incoherent amalgam of food slop on a plate
and eating until one is debilitated is definitely anti-hipster. But
Thanksgiving is also a time for hipsters to gather and enjoy a sense of “shared
experience,” a favorite term for hipsters. To make Thanksgiving cool, hipsters
avoid turkey, stuffing, pumpkin pie and other ingredients that constitute the
“eating clichés of the Herd” and demonstrate that one is shackled to
close-minded provincialism. A more open-minded, cosmopolitan hipster
Thanksgiving feast might feature home-made sushi, Okinawan purple sweet
potatoes, miso collard greens and Ichigo Daifuku sweet cakes. Faring international food at one’s
Thanksgiving table is conclusive evidence that one is enlightened enough to see
the folly of the traditional Thanksgiving, but warm-hearted and magnanimous
enough to seize any opportunity to embrace a time when family and friends bond
and get together.
Principle
#4: Hipsters Don’t Get Punk-Fed by the Man.
Zevon made it clear: Hipsters are the most educated eaters on the planet. And
their modern-day Food Sage is author Michael Pollan who proselytizes over and
over in his books, In Defense of Food
and The Omnivore’s Dilemma, that the
human race should shun the processed foods made by the Evil Food Industrial
Complex and eat only real food. By processed foods, Pollan is referring to the
chemical-laden “foodstuffs” like Pringles, Doritos, Twinkies, frozen pizzas,
all of which can be identified by ingredients with polysyllabic chemical names
so long and confusing as to defy correct pronunciation even from the most
erudite microbiologist. On the other hand, real foods aren’t meddled with. How
much can you do to an orange, or an egg, or an almond, or piece of salmon? It
is food in its unmolested form that constitutes the badge of being “real” and
is therefore hipster. The highly processed foods, on the other hand, are made
by the Evil Industrial Machine, AKA, the Man, and hipsters never, ever let the
Man punk-feed them.
Principle
#5: Hipsters Only Eat Foods That Are Part of a Grand Pastoral Narrative. As food writer extraordinaire Michael Pollan expounds in The
Omnivore’s Dilemma, there is a certain
kind of shopper who frequents Whole Foods because many of the foods are
attached to pamphlets or have some kind of literature that attests to the
Edenic setting from which truffles, coffee beans, Mission figs, artisan yogurt,
and “free-range” chickens are cultivated by benevolent, rosy-cheeked farmers
and make it to the Whole Foods market without leaving too large of a carbon
footprint. The hipster is eager to share the fact that his dark chocolate was
founded by a visionary, socially responsible explorer who adopts orphans in
remote regions of Latin America, pays them generous wages for their labors of
picking cocoa beans and establishes scholarships for all of them so that
eventually they become neurosurgeons, college professors, and activist lawyers,
and Pulitzer-Prize winning authors.
Principle
#6: Hipsters Only Eat While Conversing Or Reading. As a general rule, hipsters go against the grain of
mainstream America. For example, Americans eat the largest food portions in the
world and have made eating the equivalent of “feeding the beast.” By this I
mean too many Americans eat with a shameless rapacity which renders their
brains completely empty. The American penchant for consuming slop until
one is moribund and incapacitated is astutely explained by Laurence Shames in The
Hunger for More, where he posits that the
America’s frontier, fueled by the myth of Manifest Destiny, created an appetite
for conquering vast lands. In the absence of virgin forestry, we, as Americans,
still have the hunger to conquer and exploit, but now we’ve circumvented that
rapacity into consumer excess and in the process, I would add, we’ve regressed
into our troglodyte ancestors. To be sure, this troglodyte-style eating is an
anti-social act. For example, I’ve heard there is a steakhouse in Houston where
each partitioned table has its own color TV. Hunched over like ravenous
carnivores, customers squint at the TVs, just inches from their face, while
cutting into their oversized rare steaks, blood and meat bits splattering
against the television screens. Every now and then a busboy rushes to the TVs
and wipes blood juices off the screens with a sponge. He works around the
patrons who, transfixed by their program, will not budge from their spot. I
imagine that as the busboy places his hands dangerously close to the chomping
mouths, he sometimes gets a finger or two bitten off. His digits, sticking out
of the patrons’ mouths like chicken bones, are probably inhaled during the
feeding frenzy.
The feeding orgy I
have just described is quintessentially anti-hipster. For
a hipster, eating is a communal, almost sacred, act rich with ebullient
repartee with like-minded hipsters. Hipsters like to talk about the foods they
are eating with the same artistic rigor they might apply to an analysis of a
Renoir painting. The point is that for hipsters the food is not of value by
itself, but is only provides an opportunity for bonding and luxuriating in a
bath of ideas. If no one is available for conversation, then a book is needed,
featuring such standard hipster reading material as the notebooks of Albert
Camus, the philosophical musings of E.M. Cioran, or the latest manifesto from
Jeremy Rifkin.
Principle
#7: Hipsters Know Their Sushi. Going into
a sushi restaurant and being completely lost with the menu and not knowing the
sushi protocols, such as the correct technique for using chopsticks, is
definitely anti-hipster. Perhaps because sushi is so diminutive in its portion
size and so artistically presented, it represents the antithesis of troglodyte
eating and is therefore prized highly by American hipsters who navigate
insouciantly in a sushi restaurant, fluently ordering agari (green tea) and hamachi (yellowtail tuna). However, Zevon warned me that bringing
a sushi guide into the restaurant would result in the loss of “Hipster Points,”
as would ordering the ever loathsome California rolls.
Principle
#8: Hipsters Grind Their Own Coffee Beans and Use a French Press. Zevon made it clear that hipsters were at their fascist
worst when it comes to coffee preparation. A list of infractions that can never
be forgiven are using percolators, instant coffee, and sub-grade coffee beans.
Equally egregious is tarting up one’s coffee with flavored creamers and
artificial sweeteners. Not only must hipsters grind their own beans, they must
use a burr grinder because the cheaper blade grinders make inconsistently sized
crystals, which compromise flavor. Anyone who does not know the distinction
between a blade and a burr grinder, Zevon emphasized, cannot be a hipster.
Principle
#9: When It Comes to Setting the Table, Hipsters Favor Japanese or Swank. Hipsters sniff at conventional tableware and prefer
Japanese earthen bowls or sushi sets or in the absence of a distinctly Japanese
aesthetic, they go swank, which means setting the table with retro tableware
from the early 1960s, including magnetic orange juice glasses on checker or
chess boards and billiard ball shot glasses. Zevon made it clear that going
retro is not about nostalgia. It’s all about cultivating irony and showing off
that one watches the consummate hipster television show, set in the early
1960s, Mad Men.
Principle
#10: Making Gourmet Comfort Food Is Ironic and Therefore Cool. Sometimes patting themselves on the back for knowing the
meaning of “oxymoron,” hipsters love to make comfort food—something from the
archived recipe books of our frumpy mothers—and reinventing it as the
contradictory “gourmet comfort food” by adding some fancy touches and thereby
making the dish ironic. For example, macaroni and cheese might be made with brie,
camembert, roasted garlic, truffles, and Mission figs. Or cornbread might be
made with blue cornmeal, chipotles, sun-dried tomatoes, and Havarti cheese.
Hipsters are fond of calling these comfort food variations “deconstructions” to
show that all the time and money spent on grad school did not completely go to
waste.
Principle
#11: Hipsters Never, Ever Buy Store-Bought Salad Dressing. One of the hipster’s most rigid codes is the dictate that
“thou shalt make thine own salad dressing from scratch.” The reason behind this
fierce rule is considered by some to born of urban legend, but as someone who
witnessed the circumstances that are responsible for this strict decree, I wish
to explain, first-hand, why store-bought salad dressing is strictly forbidden.
Back in 1984 when I was working my way through college by stocking wine and
beer at a hipster liquor store in Berkeley, I witnessed an aspiring hipster
suffer the humiliation of being admonished by one of my co-workers, Skyler
Oliphant, for bringing a bottle of pre-made salad dressing to the cash
register. Skyler was the classic hipster snob over-educated for his position as
a wine clerk. He often discussed literature with the customers,
explaining, for example, how reading Flaubert’s Madam Bovary in the original French better captures the nuances
of provincial France. Or as he bagged the brie, smoked salmon, and Sauvignon
Blanc, he often explicated the finer points of Don DeLillo’s White
Noise while defending the novel’s lack of
plot and narrative arc. He spoke three languages. He always lets the customers
know through his conversations that he had a life outside his job that was far
more meaningful and exciting than what he did for an actual living. Skyler in fact was an expert in
Japanese landscaping. He also built futons with his bare hands and sold
hand-crafted Japanese mattresses and pillows, Sobagaras, that he stuffed with buckwheat hulls.
Skyler was fond of
admonishing customers if they shopped for products in the store that reflected
mediocrity, convenience over quality, or the greatest plague of the upper
class—philistinism. Skyler was eager to save people from these plagues, so that
whenever customer sets pink Chablis, onion-flavored processed cheese and frozen
microwave lasagna on the counter, Skyler sighed, rolled his eyes and proclaimed
that he adamantly refused to sell these products. “Those are for the
troglodytes,” he would say, “the out-of-towners who came out of their caves for
a quick bite.”
On one notorious
afternoon, a young couple—soon to be married—entered the store and said they
were in a rush to go to a dinner party of which they were responsible for
bringing a salad. The man, dressed in a preppy light blue sweater with the
shirt collars folded over the sweater as was in vogue during that time, brought
a bottle of poppy seed dressing to the counter, at which point Skyler nearly
had a fit. “Why are you buying this overpriced salad dressing when you could
make it yourself?” Skyler asked him holding the bottle and scouring the
ingredients. “Not to mention that this stuff is crap.”
“Just sell it to
me. We’ve got to be at a dinner party.”
“Nonsense. Bringing store-bought dressing is an
insult to your hosts. It won’t take more than a few minutes to whip up a good
dressing.” Ignoring the man’s repeated concerns that he was rushed for time,
Skyler recited a list of ingredients for a home-made dressing—mustard, cider
vinegar, olive oil, onions, sugar, and poppy seeds. While the man became
annoyed that Skyler was making him and his fiancé late, the woman was thankful
and said it would be okay to be a few minutes late if it meant bringing a
high-quality dressing to the dinner party. The man and woman bickered back and
forth and as the man gesticulated while holding the salad dressing bottle, he inadvertently
whacked the bottle into a sharp corner of the candy bar rack, causing shards of
glass and dressing to splatter all over his fiancé’s body and face. He then
stormed out of the store while Skyler applied first-aid to the attractive young
woman.
To make a long
story short, the couple’s wedding was called off and Skyler soon after starting
dating the woman, whom he eventually married.
Word quickly
spread throughout Berkeley and San Francisco as to the cause of this couple’s
breakup and ever since that fateful day buying store-bought dressing has become
emblematic of being backward, provincial, and downright anti-hipster.
Principle
#12: Hipsters Are Eating Contrarians.
Zevon made it clear that hipsters are too diverse a group to all be vegetarians
or vegans. He explained that vegetarianism is just one way to be a food
contrarian, going against the cultural mainstream. “It doesn’t matter what
contrarian eating position the hipster takes, Zevon said. “Whether it’s
gluten-free, anti-diary, pro-dairy, detox, all-raw, anti-oxidant, pro-soy,
anti-soy, the point is that hipsters have to be prepared to argue their eating
position to the death. In other words, it’s not the diet that matters so much
as the level of expertise. Hipsters research their diet with the rigor of a
specialist and use their contrarian eating habit as a springboard for showing
off their fluent knowledge of chemistry, anthropology, history, and
bio-medicine. Zevon admitted that it’s common for hipsters to go from one food
fad to the next, which is lame, but at least they arm themselves with a
profound knowledge of their subject so that they can vigorously rationalize
their position.
Over the ensuing
month, I did my best to adhere to the Hipster Eating Code, reading Nietzsche
and Pascal as I ate my morning oatmeal and exploring new ways to add golden
beets to my radicchio salads. But while obeying Zevon’s dictate to never count
my calories, I gained five pounds. It turns out that my genetic DNA and
metabolic rate are definitely anti-hipster.
So as our new
President adroitly heads the Executive Office looking svelte and presidential,
I must resign myself to looking less like Barack Obama and more like Larry
Csonka.
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